We will not soon forget yesterday! We rented a car and drove up through Therisso Gorge – only a short drive from where we have been staying in Chania, Crete. Bobby hiked Samaria Gorge a few weeks ago, but that would have been too long for Cora to manage in one day (about 10 miles). Samaria is so crowded, but gorgeous. Although Therisso Gorge is one of the only gorges on Crete that the public can drive through, we found that when we parked the car and hiked around a bit, we were alone (well, just us and the goats!)
Can you find the goat? I’m sure there are more than one…
It was our first crisp, cool day here – perfect fall weather for exploring the mountains. Cora enjoyed scrambling over rocks, spotting goats high on rocky crags above us, and discovering the white bones of goats which perhaps didn’t quite have good enough balance! We stopped the car several times to explore the rocky gorge floor next to the road, as well as to shoo herds of sheep off the road so we could pass. It is a beautiful place.
Cora discovered a jawbone, 2 femurs, a vertebra, and lower leg bone. She wanted to keep finding bones to put together an entire goat skeleton! She has been wondering how our teeth fit in our jaws, so this was a great opportunity to pull some teeth and see how it works!
On the road through the gorge: Cora picked me some mountain tea herbs
After a traditional Cretan lunch and a walk around the small town of Therisso…
The small town of Therisso
…we continued on toward Drakona. But first, we took a wrong turn and ran into this crowd:
Shepherds and their sheep, near Therisso, Greece
Then headed this way…
In the mountains near Therisso
Vineyards and olive groves
As we entered the area of Drakona, we saw a sign for “Taverna. Slow food.” We figured we would stop to see if they served mountain tea. As we pulled up, we saw a lamb being chased by two dogs and a baby. We HAD to stop!
Ntounias restaurant – an unforgettable place!
The chef/owner Stelios welcomed us (hanging outside with his buddies) and his daughter took Cora by the hand.
A few of our greeters at Ntounias. This little one would not let go of us!
It became apparent that the lamb (still bearing its dried umbilical cord) was a part of this crew and Stelios told us that her mother had died 10 days ago while giving birth. The lamb skittered after him wherever he walked, and begged to come inside the taverna. We asked if he had tea, and he frowned and said “No Lipton!” We said, “No, of course! Mountain tea.” Then he smiled, took us by the hands, and led us around the yard, showing us which leaves to pick from various plants to make the best pot of tea.
He then explained that there were cows and chickens and “pork” and rabbits for us to see if we wanted to take a walk down the hill behind the tavern while he brewed the tea. His little daughter was still holding Cora’s hand, so I asked if we should leave her behind. He said, “Mom is boss!” and motioned to me. So I picked up the baby and off we went! I couldn’t believe this man had invited us in like family and allowed us to visit his farm and walk off with his daughter. We explored the olive groves, the gardens, the raki still, and the animal pens. The baby knew her way around and the place, and didn’t hesitate to tell us exactly what she wanted (including our tea and dessert).
When we returned from our walk, the chef surprised us with traditional dessert and a delicious dish of rice and spinach alongside our tea. It was clear that everything they serve at this restaurant is grown or raised right here. Food is cooked slowly in traditional clay pots over fire. We were sad we had already eaten lunch and couldn’t order more, because the food we tasted was amazing! We would have loved to stay all day and night, but we had to return the rental car. As we sat and ate and walked around, we continued to laugh and watch the two dogs “herd” the little lamb around. We regret not renting a car sooner in the trip, because we would have loved to explore more of Crete’s mountain villages and go back to eat dinner at that restaurant! If you ever come to Crete, be sure to visit this amazing restaurant. Be sure to spend plenty of time looking around, seeing where your food is grown, and relaxing. The owner also rents out houses like the one below. Stay for the night!
The inside of one of the rental houses. Wish we could stay the night!
We dodged several more herds of sheep as we headed back to Chania for an evening of backgammon (the game you’ll see everyone playing in Crete) and tea in Splantzia Plaza by our house. Ahh… we love Crete!
A bartender taught Cora and Bobby how to play backgammon, and then Cora taught me!
P.S. We know we haven’t been posting here much. For more regular updates, find us on our Facebook page. Also, “Macy” is now going by her real name (Cora) in the blog. Sorry for any confusion!
Wonderful! Sounds like an amazing place and adventure!!
Wow! I love the pictures and it sounds like an amazing day! Can’t wait to read more about your adventures.